72 hours in Creuse

This is not a region that you can drive through without seeing it. In fact, there are no freeways in Creuse, which is framed by major roads: the A20 from Paris to Toulouse (a tiny section of which makes an incursion along the border), the A71 from Orléans to Clermont-Ferrand and the A89 from Bordeaux to Lyon. inside this triangle, like a diamond in a kitten, lies the Creuse, with its forests, ponds, rivers, villages, churches and narrow lanes that smell of hazelnuts...

We sometimes hear that it's one of the poorest departments in France, which of course makes no sense. For those parts of France that are overflowing with big cities, shopping malls and tourist infrastructures can indeed be said to be "poor" in terms of humanity, authenticity and well-being. The Creuse, on the other hand, is rich in people, traditions and solidarity. Living here is a privilege shared by some 115,000 Creusois, each of whom has twelve times more space than a Maralpin, thirty times more than a Rhodanian, a thousand times more than a Parisian... Not to mention that a square meter of living space is ten times less expensive than in Paris. But it's true that Guéret has neither the Eiffel Tower nor the PSG...

The culinary specialties are few and far between, in keeping with the region's image. Fondu creusois is a complete dish of melted cheese served with French fries, salad and charcuterie; gâteau creusois aux noisettes, a cousin of pound cake, whose recipe is shared - and guaranteed - by the thirty or so pastry-makers in the Le Creusois association.

A walk through the Creuse is a constant delight. If you're coming from the south, for example, you'll start in the rolling countryside of the Millevaches regional nature park, from Corrèze to Creuse, passing through the pretty village of Faux-la-Montagne, before reaching Felletin. It's a pity that the village inn (La Feuillade) is up for sale, but we're hoping for a buyer soon. As one local proudly puts it: "Felletin is a little bit different in the department". Perhaps because of its character, its liveliness - the Friday market is one of the finest and best-stocked in the department - and the visible affection of the locals for their village. The central square features a wine bar, a new pizzeria, the Grand Bazar, a new vegan restaurant, La Fusée and the Grand Café, where you can enjoy a drink on the terrace.

just a few minutes away, Aubusson is world-renowned for its tapestry, a craft that originated in the 15th century and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009. Under Louis XIV, Aubusson was the site of a royal tapestry factory, which is still in operation today, and the town has continued to attract great artists such as Jean Lurçat, who revitalized this textile art form in the late 1930s. Buoyed by this artistic spirit, it's only natural to visit the Cité internationale de la tapisserie, which celebrates its tenth anniversary in 2026, and the tapestry-maker's house, which houses the tourist office. The spirit of the craftsman lives on as you stroll through the town, dotted with a variety of workshops.

We then head for Chénérailles, Ahun and its beautiful Saint-Sylvain church with its Romanesque crypt, before reaching Guéret, a peaceful prefecture whose commercial life is concentrated in the small pedestrianized center. There's still plenty to see: Bénévent-l'Abbaye and its listed abbey church, Fursac, La Souterraine, then La Celle-Dunoise, a lovely village on the Creuse. If Felletin

is a curiosity full of character for the south of the department, Bonnat is its northern alter ego, both calm and lively. The tour ends at Boussac, on the Berry border, with its beautiful château, which once held the famous Lady of the Unicorn tapestries.