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The knife, a chef's blade

The knife, a chef's blade

Who hasn't walked past a cutlery shop and fallen for one of these objects, some of which have become true works of art? Sophisticated, collected and exhibited, knives are no longer content merely to slice, but have become the standard-bearers of our culinary talents.

Geneviève Brunet & Séverine Panhalleux

Archive INA 1959, Raymond Olivier's program "La cuisine pour les hommes": black-and-white images, cameras focused on the hands of the boss of Parisian restaurant Le Grand Véfour, a pioneer of modern cuisine. Chopping an onion or slicing a chicken with rare velocity, this father of media chefs brought knives into the home of television viewers. His heirs, stars of the airwaves and screens, continue to push the coming out of this utensil, once reserved for professionals in the culinary trades, and now an object of desire for amateur cooks.

From flint to art object

It's one of the oldest objects created by man, but today we're a long way from the vital tool of the hunter-gatherer. The confinement of 2020, combined with the rediscovered pleasure of cooking, has opened up a boulevard for it. The market, driven by cutting-edge craftsmen and renowned houses, has seen sales explode. Brands signed partnerships with chefs, and the knife entered our kitchens through the front door. In the 21st century, the knife has become an objet d'art, and chefs are even showing off their originality in the kitchen. Proudly displayed on its magnetic bar or in its dedicated block, it has become the marker of our culinary talents. In fact, it has always been part of our heritage.

like your grandfather's watch, it was Grandma's favorite knife that you sought to save from the family heirloom. Today, you covet the complete set: the paring knife, versatile and precise, for peeling vegetables or slicing meat; the chef's knife, with its straight, wide blade, always within reach of the worktop; the tranchelard, narrow and pointed, an institution; for the more sophisticated, the tomato knife, notched, or the flexible blade for lifting fish fillets, or even a Japanese santoku. And let's not forget the bread knife with its sharp serrations for attacking a crusty loaf.

A knife for life

You don't buy a knife like a pair of shoes. It's meant to last a lifetime, to create a bond of trust and intimacy with the hand, and to become one with the person attacking the dinner. The way in which the object has been shaped - pressed or cut steel bar - and its assembly with the handle will be a guarantee of its quality and durability. Soon, you'll be talking about the performance, balance and perfection of Damascus steel. What's more, you'll be asking your knife to be beautiful, to tell a story. Soon you'll be catching the bug, touring France's finest cutlery houses, squinting at Japan and dreaming of a Miyabi, a veritable work of art requiring 130 stages of manufacture.

And then there's the ultimate recommendation: maintenance. Your knives won't be dishwasher-proof, and you'll learn the difference between sharpening and honing, and be hooked on how-to tutorials. The maintenance of fine tools is no laughing matter: your knives, after all, have just become part of the family heirloom.

The Gault&Millau selection

Thrifty, practical, elegant, authentic and precise, the knife slices, dices, chops and minces according to the season and your inspiration.

Sélection Les Couteaux

  1. Precise. The perfect chef's knife for slicing, dicing and chopping, in Nitrum stainless steel, POM (polyoxymethylene) handle. "Riviera", Arcos, €72.
  2. Authentic. The filleting knife, with narrow, flexible blade, for lifting fish fillets and cutting thin strips, in carbon steel. Sabatier, 70 €.
  3. Versatile. The paring knife, 9 cm blade, for precision cutting and frequent use, POM handle. "Georges", TB Groupe, €27.90.
  4. Design. The chef's knife for chopping and cutting meat, fish, fruit and vegetables, 15 cm blade, polypropylene handle and bamboo powder. "Wasabi Black", Kai, €53.
  5. Original. The lightweight (200 g), multitasking chef's knife, 20.5 cm blade, Pakkawood handle. "Chef Tanaka Forest Wood", Kaitsuko, €61.99.
  6. User-friendly. Perfect for finely slicing dry-cured or cooked ham, smoked salmon and a few cuts of meat, 30 cm blade. "Usuba", Arcos, €36.
  7. Robust. The French professional chef's knife, 18.5 cm Nitrox stainless steel blade, cherry wood handle. ETCH, €150.
  8. Professional. Ideal for precise vegetable cutting, lateral bevel, straight edge, 17.5 cm Nitrum blade, POM handle. "Usuba Universal, Arcos, €44.
This article is taken from Gault&Millau Magazine #10. It is available in bookshops and on the Gault&Millau e-shop.
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