As elsewhere, openings are multiplying in Brest. And some of them are top-notch! Take, for example, this downtown restaurant launched by Josselin Le Diffon (formerly of La Butte in Plouider) and Eva Lotrous. It occupies the corner first floor of a residential building. Entirely glazed, the room offers an unfiltered view to passers-by. It's naturally bright. It's also spacious, and sometimes a little noisy, as conviviality dictates. The furnishings are sober, with no flashy colors. The attractive tiled floor matches the tables (without tablecloths) and chairs. On this particular day, beautiful scallops served in their shells were paired with a sapid creamy pumpkin soup. The right idea: a well-balanced "marine" condiment (shallot, seaweed, sake, vinegar...) that provided a nice contrast to the ambient sweetness. Next, artichokes à la barigoule were followed by tender venison fillets cooked to perfection. This fully seasonal menu concluded with a lightly caramelized poached clementine, winter marmalade and fromage blanc sorbet. All in all, a cuisine based on good ideas, a rigorous choice of products and an assertive technique. In the dining room, efficient service adds to the good mood. As for the wine list, it can be browsed at high "V" speed: some twenty relevant proposals.
