Arborescence
76 Rue de la Gare, 59170 Croix, France
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Practical information
- Location
- Croix
- Chef
- Félix Robert
- Cooking
- French | Fusion | Gastronomic | Healthy cooking | Local | Signature cuisine
- Style
- Elegant, Romantic
Budget
(€)
Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)
115 to 180
Gault&Millau's review 2026
16/20
Remarkable Restaurant
In this rather chic suburb of Lille, where industry has given way to art in this tastefully renovated and furnished building, time stands still with grace. There’s such a vibrant atmosphere here, with such positive energy and dedication, that there’s no doubting the sincerity of Nidta and Félix Robert’s vision and commitment. The dishes, so beautifully presented in each course, offer a poetic glimpse into the very essence of the chef’s cuisine—which favors bold, expressive flavors—all set against a soft, Zen-like backdrop, with well-spaced tables and a free-spirited atmosphere. One can’t help but smile at this meticulously crafted presentation, which at times borders on an art gallery or exhibition. But starting with the welcoming haiku, everything flows harmoniously: the appetizers, followed by the langoustine mayonnaise as a starter, the “asparagus hut,” coconut milk mousse, spicy tom yam-style oil, mushroom sabayon, elderflower vinaigrette, the whole oyster with herbs, tempura-style in its shell, and a herb pancake—all coming together to create a marine garden; the chef demonstrates skill and ingenuity in bringing out the very best in his ingredients. He does justice to the red mullet by serving it whole—as its nickname, “fortune of the sea,” suggests—with a robust sauce, paired with Maroilles ravioli, a bold “tiger” sauce, and quail, which is excellent—the most impressive dish in this sequence, served flat, with a small glass of rich, smooth fat as a condiment to sip. Sometimes, there’s a slight risk of confusion in such sophisticated dishes, but that’s the very essence of daring cuisine—the cuisine of a chef who wants to push the boundaries as far as possible in what has become an art form, once taught at Gauthier and Troisgros. A fine dessert of strawberries, pink peppercorns, hibiscus, and prune kernels, served in a rather solemn atmosphere well suited to the occasion, paired with a discerning wine selection featuring established classics and rising stars.
Map
OPENING HOURS
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Menu
A la carte
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