A varied menu and well-executed dishes prepared with a touch of simplicity—that’s what we expect from a modern restaurant, even in upscale neighborhoods. This excellent bistro lives up to its reputation under the direction of Maxime Le Meur (Gemellus 14.5/20), who showcases the full range of his talent with classic dishes cleverly reimagined at affordable prices, such as leeks with ravigote sauce and herring, hand-cut sausage with mashed potatoes and Bordelaise sauce, chicken supreme with sage, marinated red cabbage, and peanuts, and Landas-style meat pie with vanilla ice cream, all served in a pleasant setting that extends to a small terrace.