A practical, well-run restaurant offering a range of contemporary cuisine, French classics, and seasonal specialties, such as melon with ham and Pineau jelly, pollock ceviche with jalapeños and puffed quinoa, monkfish tail with grilled vegetables and sauce vierge, and veal filet mignon with forestière sauce—which even goes so far as to feature curly sparassis as a side dish. Desserts follow the same spirit, including Norwegian omelet and almond financier…