Has Brice Moncuit mellowed? Not really. The maverick from Cherbourg, who has been shaking up the (all too narrow) local gastronomic scene for nearly 10 years, has occasionally drawn the ire of a few neighbors or local authorities for a few overly noisy evenings, but this son of fishermen—who learned his craft at La Marine in Barneville-Carteret and at the Plaza Athénée—has lost none of his verve or energy. His menu is brimming with wonderful ideas (octopus, arugula, blood orange, potatoes and fennel, moussette cream, scallop tartare with baby spinach, Normandy beef chuck confit, pommes dauphines, and yellow and orange carrot purée…), the wine list keeps the right pace, and the service reflects the chef’s personality: energetic, cheerful, and no-nonsense. There’s a pleasant terrace on the small square for summer evenings.