So Parisian, so trendy that it might, if not make you angry, at least cause a slight irritation. But here’s the thing: Colère, like Orgueil, is helmed by Eloi Spinnler, and this young chef is clearly a talent to watch. He can get away with just about anything, riding any wave without falling off the board, pulling off daring pairings just as effortlessly as the basics—cooking, sauces, seasoning. So we happily indulge in Colère with the pâté croûte or the kimchi of the moment, followed by vitello tonnato, the superb pithiviers with trout and green asparagus in wild garlic pistou, or the pork chop with white asparagus and lentils à la petit salé, before finishing with the lemon-kiwi-black pepper tart. The wine list is interesting, and the service is full of energy and enthusiasm, adding to the festive atmosphere.