Pierre-Jean Arpurt left his comparses, Les Agitateurs in Nice, to set up as an innkeeper in Roquefort les Pins, with a simple idea: to build a bistronomic table with gastronomic ambitions, without overload or unnecessary demonstration. In the kitchen, Alsatian chef Thomas Pecunia delivers recipes that are half-Canailles, half-Burgundian, with largely Mediterranean inspirations. A 4-course menu (sold as five courses, including appetizers) at €66, brushes the fine level of execution, green asparagus from Provence with orange blossom sabayon and lettuce cream, ballotine of sea bream with Noilly Prat foam and peas, wood-fired lamb chop with chard leaf, chickpea texture, full-bodied jus and mint oil, the first strawberries on a gavotte and strawberry coulis infused with fresh verbena. Four weeks later, new ideas emerge from the pass. While the fireplace area is ideal for a first glass, drawn from two cellar books where the great names rub shoulders with confidential winegrowers, the inn's spaces encourage moments of complicity, dear to large tables of friends or couples getting together. A service that lives up to this ambition for this serious, embodied table, which never loses its sense of pleasure.