This “Coup de main” is a masterstroke for Victor Berthe, who earned two toques in his very first year and has been a huge hit with Lille’s enthusiastic audience of connoisseurs. They thoroughly enjoy the always spot-on wine-by-the-glass selections, as well as the young chef’s refined and sophisticated creations: skate wing terrine à la grenobloise, Mangalica pork with devil’s sauce, peach à la royale with purple shiso—an inspired sequence that showcases the precision and focus he honed, notably at Ducasse’s Plaza and at Diego Delbecq’s Rozo.