EAT, for an acronym that speaks to the world's tourists, is an honest and simple bistro behind the Place Crillon. The lunchtime menu is simple, and the choice on offer is in keeping with the times: terrine, smoked salmon, pumpkin-chestnut crumble, chuck in pot-au-feu, back of saithe in Thai broth, French toast... The wine cellar is simple and regional, with a decent choice at under €30 a bottle.