In the paradise of eels—and especially to the delight of Adrien Ferrand, who found his calling here a few years ago. On the verge of earning three toques, he thrives and delights his guests. There’s no need to aim for higher echelons or cater to a different clientele, since he’s happy just as he is. His cuisine is straightforward, accomplished, never mundane, and always distinctive. The €39 lunch menu, featuring seasonal and current offerings, allows guests to craft a consistently indulgent meal tailored to their preferences, with four choices per category: grilled octopus with rhubarb and asparagus in a briny jus; grilled pork with leeks and shiitake mushrooms in a peanut sauce with sesame jus; and strawberries with basil and black sesame on a Breton cookie for dessert. Vegetarian options for those who prefer them, eel always available à la carte, and a refined wine list, with an average check remaining steady at around 80 €.