Just as crowded as across the street pretty much all year round, with the same result: a real treat at Grégory Marchand’s wine bar, featuring simpler dishes but with the same high standards for the final result: pig’s head croquettes, a trout hot dog with lemon-candied mayo and fennel salad, chicken skewer with rhubarb glaze, cashew sauce, coconut milk, naan, and cheese; cherry clafoutis, buckwheat financier, and elderflower ice cream—all making for an excellent experience, complemented by the same discerning wine cellar, with a substantial and intriguing selection by the glass.