A hostellerie of the kind that, thank God, still flourishes in the French countryside, with its touching rituals and loyalty. The setting, with its splendid Zuber wallpaper and rustic bourgeoisness, is a fitting accompaniment to a menu that respects regional customs: sauerkraut salad with munster croutons and roasted cervelas, poultry cordon bleu with smoked ham in cream sauce, pork shank on a bed of sauerkraut. Meticulous, attentive service.