With method and clarity, this restaurant continues to move forward quietly. The somewhat confusing name doesn’t help much, but regulars need no explanation to appreciate this cuisine, which features subtle Asian influences set against a solid traditional foundation: asparagus tempura, foie gras pâté en croûte, wagyu nigiri sushi, braised pollock with a beurre blanc emulsion, BBQ-style pork ribs—all part of a fairly extensive menu that also offers a good selection of classic desserts (île flottante, cheesecake, chocolate bavarois…).