Taken over by Bruno Doucet, who is certainly wearing himself out, as he’s also in charge of Le Grand Véfour and La Régalade. Here, he follows the sound principles of his friend Yves Camdeborde: keeping things simple and delicious with recognizable classics—terrine, egg with mayonnaise, croque-monsieur, macaroni gratin, Niçoise salad, veal rack with cumin-spiced carrot mousseline, apple tart with vanilla ice cream. Efficient and reasonably priced for a prime location at the Odéon. Good selection of wines by the glass.