In this village—voted the French people’s favorite in 2024—perched on a hill overlooking the bay, with the famous bell tower in plain sight, Chef Vincent Guerraz leads an efficient kitchen staff in serving a large clientele at the start of summer. The sea makes its presence felt in classic dishes such as this shrimp salad with tomato and guacamole or this semi-cooked tuna in a sesame crust. Land-based flavors are also featured, such as in this pink-roasted veal from the Pyrenees served hamburger-style on a bed of potatoes and a large button mushroom. Desserts feature apricots, strawberries on a pavlova, or a Breton shortbread topped with lemon ganache and lemon-basil sorbet. The wine list includes all the great names from the Banyuls and Collioure regions, making for a dinner that’s predictable—one we’d love to see open to more creative flair.