Le Taillevent

Rating: 16.5
Author: Gault&Millau

75008 PARIS

16.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

23 PHOTOS

Cooking: French
Services: Pets allowed | Valet parking
Style: Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

158 to 345

Gault&Millau's review 2026

The horizon is brightening for the Rue Lamennais institution. For if the prices are still those of a five-star restaurant, as if past glory were a given, as if Taillevent were still the leading restaurant in Paris, and therefore in the world, the gap between desire and reality is tending to narrow. Thanks, of course, to the place itself, which remains impressive and moving for many of us; thanks to the management, who have managed to move on from the Vrinat era while maintaining the precepts of a high-aristocratic Parisian mansion (Taillevent is like Talleyrand's); and finally, thanks to the stability established around Giuliano Sperandio, whose name alone is a reason for hope. After four years at the helm of the paneled temple's stoves, the Italian chef has built an identity for himself, based on lightness and subtle protrusions, as seen in the line whiting with white pepper and nasturtium leaves stuffed with vegetable juice, flanked by satellite kokotxas à la grenobloise (nice but not decisive) or carabineros with hazelnut butter and a saffron sauce with Schrenki caviar. The trust placed in him is also due to his versatility - a fine job with the classics, especially game - and his flexibility, giving him the means to adapt an entire meal with last-minute products - lobster, venison, white truffle, turbot? - which he will dress with nobility. The four-thousand-strong cellar makes an effort not to overdo the grand crus, offering four pages of rather interesting wines by the glass, and a well-managed sommelier team.