The restaurant run by Nathan Cretney and Solen Pineau, his partner and perfect mistress of the house, combines some of the shortcomings of today's restaurant industry, against which we frequently protest. Hidden menus, only five services a week (at dinner from Wednesday to Sunday), a deliberately limited capacity (the couple work alone) and, inevitably, the need to book well in advance to be sure of being able to discover this cuisine which, let's face it, rises above the fray. Beautiful dishes, a passionate cellar, a great time (ideally at the chef's table), that's for sure, as long as you like surprises.