There's no doubt that Thibaut Gamba has quickly adapted to the brilliant setting of Saint-Emilion after the charms of Lille. In his cuisine, as in his choice of produce, the taste for beauty, worked with finesse and precision, shines through with a local accent: matured red tuna with celtuce and padron condiment, green asparagus with pistachio praline and cockle juice with sorrel, langoustines with artichoke confit and sea buckthorn bisque, and brill with one-sided steak, zucchini bergamot and squid broth, are all examples of the kind of virtuoso eclecticism that befits this old house, whose steeply sloping cobblestones are as tricky as ever to access in pumps. Mushroom tartelette or saddle of lamb with broad beans and vadouvan sabayon create a soft, familiar vision in a sequence that ends elegantly with rhubarb and almond ice cream. Market menu at €65, rich cellar with a few discoveries in a logically Bordeaux menu, service at the expected level.