Beatriz Gonzalez’s restaurant on the edge of the 9th arrondissement remains an oasis of good taste. In this lively setting, frequented by longtime regulars, the menu remains as enticing as ever, as the chef masterfully adapts her offerings to the season and her clientele: sea bream tiradito with lime, cucumber, kiwi, leche de tigre, coconut milk, and cherries; rabbit saddle ballotine with zucchini babaganoush, cockle emulsion, and marinière-style sauce with meat jus (unless you’re tempted by the sweetbreads, which Beatriz has made her specialty), black sesame cherry tartlet with crème fraîche sorbet—all part of an ever-appealing set menu for €48 plus a few extras. And there’s wine, from a well-stocked cellar with a wide selection at fair prices.