The house, with its old-world charm, is quite impressive as you walk through the wrought-iron gate bearing the inscription “Louis XIV was born here.” You might expect an over-the-top display of pomp and circumstance, but the atmosphere remains fairly relaxed, and the new chef, Rodolphe Lewandowski, has crafted an appealing menu that adapts to the season: think of a “pain bagnat” with crab meat and tomato gazpacho, melt-in-your-mouth veal shank with citrus, glazed carrots, and a vanilla Saint-Honoré with crunchy caramel. Expect to pay around €75 à la carte for a well-deserved culinary treat.