The storefront is very chic, the atmosphere at the bottom of the stairs is a bit mysterious, and a meal at Florian Barbarot’s is never a journey into familiar territory. In addition to tasting menus ranging from €68 to €158, the chef is back on trend with a full à la carte menu that lets diners choose according to their preferences: octopus with a chicken-and-spinach textural compression and clove-infused carcass jus, roasted veal sweetbreads with thyme-infused butter and a poulette sauce with oyster mushrooms, and a poached pear in bergamot juice with almond cream and a herb-infused sorbet—all part of a deliberate and enticing sequence where cost and portion size are carefully controlled. An excellent wine cellar, and service that is inspired, friendly, and efficient.