Mediterranean-blue glasses, hand-crafted crockery and a warm, southern welcome. Add a large glassed-in rotunda dining room and an open-air terrace that plays touch-and-go with the boats of Estaque. The Cercle de l'aviron de Marseille has just celebrated its 100th anniversary. It's the new home of chef Sylvain Robert, who feels right at home here after 19 years of loyal service at L'Aromat, his restaurant on Rue Sainte. He serves up a memorable soup of rock, rouille, croutons and Emmental cheese; a pan-fried squid in parsley sauce, foccacia of smoked fish of the moment, red onion pickles and sour cream; ravioli with Nyons olives and warm vinaigrette with roasted red bell pepper coulis, panisses frites from Magalie's. When you return from trawling, only the wild, like this pavé of sea bream in seed crumbs, mushroom tacos and eggplant parmesan, vegetable vinaigrette. And as a nod to his former menu, the amusing bouillabaisse hamburger and minute-smoked beef, red wine jus and long potato drink. Then it's on to Mr. Gouiran's brousse du Rove, an assortment of seasonal fruits with a sweet vinaigrette, unison sorbet and Frégis chichi. All we want to do is go back...