This long-dormant restaurant has regained its luster and a renewed transalpine spirit. It doesn’t quite stand out from the crowd yet, but the pasta menu and preparation show a welcome authenticity: paglia e fieno, spaghetti vongole, carbonara, Norma… and a wide, reasonably priced selection of “secondi,” including veal al limone, grilled squid, and beef tagliata. A restaurant that’s back on top.