Maxime Laurenson is one of the rising stars of Lyon’s younger generation, and his success over the past six years is undeniable. His concept—which was all the rage at the time—features very limited operating hours (five seatings per week) and fixed-price “hidden” menus priced at €120, with the exception of Saturday lunch at €90. There’s no doubt about the chef’s quality—first glimpsed long ago at Loiseau in Paris—or his commitment to delivering on a promise of modernity through local sourcing. With this approach, he can indulge in the ingredients he’s chosen and attract the clientele he seeks to share his enthusiasm with. The wine cellar is also in step with the times, featuring natural, organic, and biodynamic wines, along with pairings that these same diners will enjoy exploring.