Maxime Le Gallo has firmly established himself in this part of town, where his restaurant offers a distinctive and rather sophisticated culinary experience. The concepts sometimes veer a bit toward the overly complicated, but the results are thoroughly satisfying, particularly on this “slash” evening menu, featuring Bern rose, pineapple, and agastache; the tuna appetizer with peach, and green beans; the duck with eggplant and cherries; the brie, plum, and cilantro dish; and the dessert featuring bell pepper, raspberry, and chinata.