They are young, full of energy and desire. Two friends of Gagnaire's, Clément Foucré (kitchen) and François Cochet (dining room), have taken over a former tearoom in one of the city's most charming micro-neighborhoods. It's beautifully laid out: open kitchen, surrounded by a counter for a few guests... Exposed beams, parquet flooring - wood is very much in evidence here - stones, a fireplace (inactive), "bistro-style" banquettes or chairs, unobtrusive lighting... The sea and plants are the main inspiration for Clément's mischievous dishes, which are not overdone, but very well thought out. For example, the langoustines, flanked by preserved leeks, are set off by a delicate bisque. Crisp-skinned red mullet fillets are classically paired with fennel in a variety of textures. A dish with precise flavors, livened up by lemony notes and a beautiful foie-based jus. Simple but effective, the chocolate dessert is a jubilant conclusion. Here, the passion for wine is not in vain. The selection is very sharp: Tessa Laroche, Thibaut Boudignon, Nicolas Joly, Thomas Pico..
