A restaurant near the Goncourt station that’s as original and delightful as ever, where chef Marco Pelletier is just as at home behind the stove as he is in front of the wine racks. In addition to its selection of some 3,500 wines, be sure to check out this clever bistronomy spot, where you can enjoy a tartlet of grilled green asparagus, gado-gado sauce, a mixed herb salad, and praline vinaigrette; monkfish from Guilvinec with white asparagus glazed with yuzukoshō, fish stock emulsion, and white onion cream; a Normandy pork loin glazed with binchotan charcoal, medlars, pointed cabbage, and Vénéré black rice risotto; and a Fontainebleau dessert with the first roasted apricots in caramel and thyme ice cream. Good service.