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L'éclair, its history and our selection of the best addresses
With its crunchy-melting choux pastry and fragrant crème pâtissière, the éclair is a staple of French patisserie. While it can be eaten without a spoon in a flash, it can also be enjoyed on a plate in a more sophisticated version.
A new lease of life at L'Auberge des Templiers with chef Kevin Stroh
Martin Simonart has announced his departure from the Auberge des Templiers, and will soon be making way for Kevin Stroh, a young Alsatian chef with an excellent track record. Here's what's set to change at this legendary Loiret establishment.
Guillaume Goupil, chef at Domaine de Fontenille and Simon Courilleau, estate gardener
As part of our series "A cook, a gardener & their vegetable garden", we head for the Domaine de Fontenille in Lauris, in the Lubéron.
With Mimosa, Jean-François Piège settles in Marseille
Jean-François Piège is particularly attached to the South of France. For this reason, the chef with five toques has planned two new openings in the region. Here's what we know.
Chefs and... bakers
We didn't expect them to open their own bakeries, but many chefs have done just that, taking the plunge with commitment and a certain mischief. Mitron Bakery, Levain, Suzanne & Lucien, Thierry Marx and B.O.U.L.O.M. are just some of the storefront names that resonate with artisan breadmaking and bakery smells. For everyone, a dream come true.
A pastry chef, a scientist, a collaborator
When physics is put to the service of patisserie, the tasting experience becomes as disconcerting as it is delicious. Between the young pastry chef at Onor, Thierry Marx's new restaurant, Pierre Perrin, and physical chemist Raphaël Haumont, researcher at the French Center for Culinary Innovation and professor at Paris-Saclay University, a conversation takes place in which centrifuges, rotary evaporators, ultrasonic tanks and vacuum techniques become the pastry chef's new utensils. Two complementary universes with a common thread: ingredients, understood as close as possible to the molecules that make them up, for a new, committed vision of tomorrow's desserts. High-flying gourmet conversation!
The Nikolaou sisters at work
In the restaurant business, we often work as a family. Between spouses, between parents and children, between brothers or sisters too. This is the case of sisters Dina and Maria Nikolaou, who run Evi Evane, a 2-toque Parisian restaurant serving authentic Greek cuisine, which has over the years added a catering service and four grocery-catering outlets, also in Paris.
Orange blossom, intoxicating and adored
Traditionally prized in North Africa, it is used to flavor gazelle horns; in Lebanon, it is used to make café blanc, a hot water sweetened with honey; and in Provence, it adds a typical southern flavor to brioches, fougasses and cookies. Today, it is gaining ground among French pastry chefs. The proof is in these 5 favorites from the editors.
A pastry chef, an artist, a collab
To continue our series of gourmet conversations, Gault&Millau meets Jessica Préalpato, former pastry chef at the Plaza Athénée, and architect Marguerite Cordelle of Studio Kokumi, with whom she is designing the outline of her very first Paris boutique, Racynes & Mélilot, which opens at the end of January.
A pastry chef, an artist, a collab
To continue our series of gourmet conversations, Gault&Millau meets Jessica Préalpato, former pastry chef at the Plaza Athénée, and architect Marguerite Cordelle of Studio Kokumi, with whom she is designing the outline of her very first Paris boutique, Racynes & Mélilot, which opens at the end of January.
Gastronomy choice: Jason Gouzy
They're barely in their thirties, and have often acquired extensive experience in large, beautiful, multi-talented establishments. Today, they have opened or are running their own restaurants, making the choice of gastronomy. Gault&Millau inaugurates a series of interviews with young chefs whose approach proves that haute cuisine is still a dream, but that rigor and ambition are also a driving force for some of those who launch themselves into this profession. Let's start with Jason Gouzy, of the Pantagruel restaurant (2 toques) in Paris.
