Ten or fifteen years ago, hardly a month went by without a Japanese chef opening a restaurant in Paris—almost always with the aim of offering cuisine that bridged the gap between French and Japanese cuisines. Yoshiaki Ito is part of this movement, and while some of his colleagues have since thrown in the towel, his Archeste holds its own in this chic corner of the 16th arrondissement. The former chef at Hiramatsu has lost none of his technical skill over the years, paying meticulous attention to cooking times, arranging his plates with precision, and crafting sauces worthy of a MOF: his magnificent risotto made with Koshihikari rice and spelt, pork trotter, chanterelles, and Bigorre black ham is a masterpiece of its kind, striking a balance between smoothness and character; his pollock is remarkable, accompanied by Utah Beach cockles with a robust flavor and a beautifully balanced pil-pil sauce; and his roasted Corrèze veal chop, with a sherry vinegar sauce, is worthy of being taught in culinary schools, thanks to the precision of its cooking and the richness of its sauce. Not a single unsightly flaw in these dishes, right up to dessert—a fruit meringue—but what is undoubtedly missing behind this unstoppable technical display is a spark, an emotion that is hard to find—except perhaps in the small slice of Vieux Comté cheesecake served after the sweet dessert, like a (too) subtle nod to culinary orthodoxy. The three-toque rating remains solid nonetheless; the service is exceptionally friendly, and the wine list is just as classic as the dishes themselves.