Taking over from Umami, Igor Lehmann has set up his Aroc, already equipped with considerable baggage, and our Lorraine correspondents alerted us to the arrival of this young chef from Nancy with an interesting international background. The beginnings are promising: no menu but a "philosophy", imposed menus, but a minimized risk since you start at lunch with a €32 three-course menu (most recently potato leek, Aubrac turnip rib with rosemary fromage frais, butternut orange cumin garlic) and a choice of meat or fish. In the evening, in the same uncluttered wooden setting, the catalog is extended, on the same basis, to €65 (five courses) and €80 (seven courses). The second chef's hat should be arriving soon.