This venerable establishment, founded in 1956, remains a model of its kind—a true Parisian restaurant that, while preserving its vintage style to reflect its heritage, brings its dishes to life on the plate. Chef Frédéric Hubig demonstrates his mastery of these great classics, infusing them with his own flair: warm white asparagus from the Landes with gribiche sauce; a jar of marinated herring with warm baby potatoes in vinaigrette; a slice of monkfish studded with chorizo, saffron-infused beurre blanc, and candied vegetables; a half roasted squab with cocoa nibs, candied lemon, and potato millefeuille; and the unmissable rum baba. An impressive wine cellar, with over two hundred selections.