Moving to rue Judaïque, Au Comptoir d'Augusta marks a change of format: no longer a large dining room, it's now a bright, contemporary bistro with a direct view of the kitchens. Samuel Zuccolotto's seasonal cuisine is easy to understand, with well-chosen products and balanced presentations. Roasted scallops, accompanied by an iodized beard jus and roasted hazelnuts, strike the right balance between land and sea without forcing the issue. The chicken supreme, cooked just right, finds in the polenta and grenailles an effective counterpoint to the power of the foie gras sauce. The pineapple carpaccio with basil sorbet brings the meal to a simple close. The wine list covers a wide spectrum of French regions, with affordable bottles and more established references. Pairings are easy to make. In the dining room, Cristina Zuccolotto ensures a natural, sincere welcome, without distance. Service is professional, attentive without being overbearing. A coherent address, without showboating.