Manon Nasti and Luca di Palma took over this brasserie, which had been run by Joseph Leiser since 1987, without altering its character: the fir wood paneling is still there, and on sunny days, the terrace—sheltered beneath an extraordinary 200-year-old wisteria—offers a delightful coolness. The menu doesn’t aim to impress or force modernity: onion tart, presskopf, winemaker’s salad, and tarte flambée sit alongside bone marrow, snails, flank steak with shallots, pork cheek in Pinot Noir, and yellow chicken with Munster cheese and cumin; a cuisine of juices, braises, and slow-cooked dishes, consistent in its style. The bouchée à la reine features a pleasantly buttery crust, a classic filling of veal, chicken, quenelles, and mushrooms, and a sauce with a subtle broth flavor—very homestyle in spirit—served with spätzle on the side. The hake fillet, fresh and cooked to perfection, rests on a sauerkraut that’s merely adequate, accompanied by a rich, creamy sauce; however, the dish loses some of its cohesion due to the superfluous carrots and green beans. To finish the meal, the frozen Vacherin—made with a yellow vanilla ice cream that lacks authenticity and whipped cream that’s too stiff—is a dessert that falls significantly short of expectations. The wine list, heavily focused on the Cave de Ribeauvillé, adequately covers the main Alsatian grape varieties but still lacks depth: in a city surrounded by the Geisberg, the Kirchberg, and the Osterberg, a few independent winemakers and more grand cru wines would add a whole new dimension to the overall experience.
OPENING HOURS
MON
TUE
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FRI
SAT
SUN
People
Chef
Chef
Pastry Cook
Pastry Cook
Sommelier
Sommelier
Menu
A la carte
Appetizers
Tarte à l'oignon, Lardons Fumés
€12
Presskopf
€12
Main dishes
Joue de porc, Pinot Noir
€21
Filet de sandre, Sauce Matelote au Riesling, Nouilles
€25