A Parisian bistro where the sought-after Basque flair isn’t quite as evident, but which makes up for it with the warmth of its welcome and the dedication of its staff, along with cuisine that has the major advantage of not being a carbon copy of everything else out there today: baby squid with ham served on a purée of eggplant with garlic and fresh parsley; cod as the “fish of the day”—an alternative to hake—prepared using the same recipe, though somewhat lackluster in its modest presentation; and a floating island that’s decent in its simplicity. Very friendly service; a small wine list focused on Bordeaux and the Southwest.