Bistrot de la Comédie

Rating: 12
Author: Gault&Millau

36 Boulevard de Launay, 44100 Nantes, France

12/20
Gourmet Restaurant

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5 PHOTOS

Location: Nantes
Chef: Thomas Pabois
Cooking: French | Traditional
Services: Terrace
Style: Bistro/Brasserie

Gault&Millau's review 2026

12/20

Gourmet Restaurant

In the Mellinet neighborhood, the Bistrot de la Comédie continues the journey begun by Émeric Chambon and chef Philippe Maizières, a duo that carries on the spirit of La Comédie des Vins in a more bistro-style setting. The atmosphere is warm, thanks to a loyal clientele and a classic dining room where wood paneling, mirrors, and bench seating create a comfortable setting. In the kitchen, Thomas Pabois offers straightforward, well-executed seasonal cuisine, true to the principles of the contemporary bistro with a particular focus on sauces and flavor balance. The scallop carpaccio highlights the freshness of citrus and the crunch of radishes. The catch of the day—hake with a crispy skin and pearly flesh—is served with a mild celery mousseline and a touch of candied lemon that adds depth and vibrancy. The pavlova rounds out the meal on a light note, combining crisp meringue with exotic fruits. The wine list remains one of the restaurant’s greatest strengths. Curated with great care, it gives equal prominence to renowned winemakers and lesser-known producers, with a strong focus on French estates and winemaker-produced wines. The selection stands out for its depth and coherence, offering a broad panorama of styles and regions. An excellent selection of wines by the glass also allows guests to explore various profiles without committing to a full bottle. In the dining room, service is smooth and attentive, with precise recommendations that naturally complement the food pairings.