A chef-run bistro that’s doing well—a true restaurant that deserves its two toques, led by a chef who doesn’t hide behind a mask: Geoffrey Lengagne, with a solid background (Gagnaire, Banctel), offers a contemporary vision built on very solid foundations: pork croquettes in tom yum broth with radish and caper garnish, tuna belly with red peas and Swiss chard, a hazelnut and green chili emulsion, spiced carrot purée with XO sauce, and tartlets with marinated strawberries, bitter almond ice cream, and matcha—all part of a brilliant and flawless sequence, both on the plate and in the service. A well-stocked wine cellar, also very contemporary, with a focus on natural wines.