Burnel

Rating: 13
Author: Gault&Millau

88500 ROUVRES-EN-XAINTOIS

13/20
Chef's Restaurant

BOOK

8 PHOTOS

Chef: Maye Cissoko
Cooking: French | Gastronomic | Local
Services: Accomodation | Disabled access | Private Parking | Terrace
Style: Romantic | With family

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

65 to 55

Gault&Millau's review 2026

The business has been in the family for four generations, but it was under the fourth generation—represented by Marion Antczak (front of house) and her husband Maye Cissoko (in the kitchen)—that the Burnel hotel-restaurant returned to the forefront. In this space, which was extensively renovated (and expanded) in 2024, the former dishwasher at the Barrière group and former student of Frédéric Anton offers cuisine that is certainly ambitious but sometimes lacks a distinct personality: the shellfish dashi and langoustine tartare come across as a bit too bland, the cod fillet with white peas, on the other hand, is beautifully enhanced by a verjus and lemongrass emulsion; the lamb fillet is expertly prepared and cooked to perfection but served with green asparagus and turnips that lack depth. A lovely rhubarb-based dessert (the chef spent a lot of time working in pastry under Frédéric Anton, and it shows)—candied with Madagascar vanilla and presented as a compote, sorbet, and chips, accompanied by a shortbread and a vanilla cream. A varied wine list, with about ten (good) options by the glass; service is sometimes a bit on autopilot.