On the road to Calacuccia and Vergio, a stop at Jacqueline's is always an opportunity. It's a chance to experience genuine Corsican traditions at first hand, with your eyes and tongue, on this sheltered terrace where the young man who serves you talks so enthusiastically about his grandmother's cooking. The single menu (although everything is also available à la carte) is a recital, featuring charcuterie, buglidicce, excellent lasagne or beans in sauce, Corsican veal, tomme and fig jam, caramel flan. You'll need a hearty appetite for this purely Corsican ripaille, so sweetly priced at €35. Pietra for the aperitif, wine from Patrimonio or elsewhere to follow.