Taking over for Christophe Hay—who made a name for himself right here before handing his restaurant over to his former executive chef—is no easy task. Nicolas Aubry is, of course, not trying to imitate the great chef—now based in Blois—but rather to bring his own personality to a cuisine that sometimes suffers from excessive complexity and seasoning that isn’t always perfectly balanced: gently steamed Croisic mackerel, new potatoes “from the garden,” lovage, and mackerel cream, lightly seared langoustine, kohlrabi, fava beans, head stock, pan-seared turbot, morel mushrooms stuffed with turbot and shellfish, brown mushroom and shellfish sauce, spinach cooked in butter, pimpernel, and sumac… A delicious dessert featuring rhubarb paired with cardamom and juniper berries, toasted brioche, and pickled rhubarb. A varied and interesting wine list, with a good selection by the glass.