Geoélia

Rating: 16
Author: Gault&Millau

125 Rue de la Tour, 75116 Paris, France

16/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

4 PHOTOS

Location: Paris
Chef: Camille Saint‑M'leux
Cooking: French | Gastronomic
Style: Elegant, Romantic

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

165

Gault&Millau's review 2026

16/20

Remarkable Restaurant

The plaster is now completely dry, the team is at full strength, and the wine cellar is growing rapidly: the former Tang—a historic Chinese restaurant taken over in 2025 by Camille Saint M'Leux, whom we knew from Villa 9Trois—seems more than ever on its way to the top. The promising signs we noticed during the first few weeks of operation have been confirmed and even amplified; the former student of Christian Le Squer is demonstrating a maturity that would put many of his elders to shame, refining his cuisine a little more each season, almost completely eliminating pre-prepared elements to prepare each dish fresh to order—with the exception, of course, of the reductions. A cuisine of the moment that grabs you by the gut, at once sensitive and sensual, elegant and refined, featuring notably a magnificent, lightly poached langoustine, simply accompanied by a “next-day” soup and an emulsion made from the claws, a perfectly cooked Camus artichoke brought to life by a magnificent Vieux Porto vinaigrette of astonishing depth, a red mullet with beautifully puffed scales, braised sucrine lettuce and a barnacle condiment providing the perfect counterpoint to the fish’s briny notes, followed by a four-toque dish, a cut of Jersey beef chuck lightly grilled over charcoal, remarkably tender and full of flavor, paired with smoked herring roe and cuttlefish bacon for a truly indulgent moment at this rapidly rising restaurant.