Irwin Durand patiently built his career, training under the greatest chefs (Yannick Alléno, Patrick Bertron, Guy Savoy…) before making a name for himself at Alan Geaam, where he won our Young Talent Award. After a few years at the helm of Guy Savoy’s Chiberta, he is now running his own restaurant in the heart of the 8th arrondissement, surrounded by several former Chiberta staff members. The three toques we awarded upon its opening last year have only improved; the team has gained confidence, and the dishes are increasingly refined and mature: magnificent wild-caught sea bass paired with watercress and potatoes; a meticulously prepared turbot, simply accompanied by a few green beans cooked to perfection—crisp yet tender at the same time; veal sweetbreads worthy of four toques, with a hint of green curry, peanuts, and lightly caramelized onions—a dish of great elegance and absolute indulgence—followed by utterly addictive desserts created by Tessa Ponzo, a talented pastry chef and longtime collaborator of Irwin Durand, who isn’t afraid to experiment with acids and vinegars. The service is impeccable, and the wine cellar is already well-stocked with many fine bottles.