A climb? Even without being a great geographer, this one remains quite modest, though it’s true that there’s a noticeable elevation difference between the Seine and Amar Chalal’s restaurant, located just a few steps from Place de Clichy. The former student of Alléno at Ledoyen offers here, behind the huge floor-to-ceiling window overlooking the street, a cuisine full of vitality and freshness that you discover through a menu offering a genuine selection (5 appetizers, as many main courses, and desserts). The dishes that come close to earning a second chef’s hat include the excellent chicken liver terrine with vegetable pickles, the line-caught hake grilled à la plancha with a piquillo pepper and lemon sauce and Venéré rice, and the pressed apple with green apple sorbet and cider caramel. The wine list holds no major surprises, and the service is lively.