A small revolution at L'Atre this year, where Julien Lefebvre has decided to split his restaurant into two distinct concepts. For lunch, there’s the Brasserie de l'Atre; in the evening, fine dining and secret set menus are served at La Table de Julien, all within the same chic bistro space. Lunch, however—in both price and preparation—is a far cry from street-food ramen: it’s all about craftsmanship and quality, with dishes like gravlax salmon and fried calamari rings, grilled sea bream with sauce vierge and ratatouille, and an apple tart baked to order. The wine cellar is quite extensive, covering all regions, with notable selections and some excellent smaller-producer wines (Carlines de Haut Buis, P’tit Clos Maia…), which, while priced on the higher side, make for pleasant accompaniments.