On the outskirts of Place Gramont, this large brasserie on the corner has the attitude of an old house, with its classic decor and pretty green bannes. In the kitchen, chef Benjamin Grandclément, a former chef - pardon the pun - with Thierry Marx, practises tradition with a confident touch. You'll find langoustines and poultry offal roasted "à la paysanne", St-Pierre like a "bourride sétoise", poule au pot, served with gratin dauphinois or lettuce braised in old port wine. Last but not least, Paris-brest or rice pudding with pumpkin seed praline.