The restaurant opened nearly sixty years ago by the Garino couple is changing hands and being reborn under the direction of Thomas Yvan, who joined as an apprentice nearly fifteen years ago. It's an understatement to say that he knows the house well, and that the handover was a smooth one; the chef has kept the regional and traditional spirit that has always structured the cuisine, and has rejuvenated the presentation, bringing to life a contemporary Provence that's close to its terroir. The menu makes sense: Mediterranean sea bream ceviche, whole shelled lobster, rack of Alpilles lamb with seasonal vegetables, confit bull fillet and tail, jus réduit, bourdaloue tart. Layered menus from €36.