The house is unassuming, almost unnoticeable from the road; yet it harbors a true gem in the heart of the Nièvre countryside. Jean-Baptiste and Maïko’s restaurant is a wonderful contemporary spot, offering serious and personal “bistronomy.” We commend the elegance of the plating, the thoughtful compositions, and Maïko’s pastries. The €75 set menu features white asparagus from the Loire Valley served hot and cold, with a yuzu hollandaise sauce and lovage from the garden; gently steamed Morvan trout with peas and sakura-leaf beurre blanc; golden veal sweetbreads, young turnips, and sage-infused jus; and a sheep’s milk yogurt mousse with rhubarb and chilled lemon balm. Well-curated wine cellar.