Restaurant de la Loire

Rating: 15.5
Author: Gault&Millau

42720 POUILLY-SOUS-CHARLIEU

15.5/20
Remarkable Restaurant

BOOK

10 PHOTOS

Chef: Fabien Raux
Services: Access for people with disabilities | Children's Menu | Pets allowed | Private Parking | Takeaway

Budget (€)

Indicative price per person (excl. drinks)

48 to 115

Gault&Millau's review 2026

Having trained under Alexandre Gauthier, among others, and made a name for himself in the heart of Strasbourg (at Le 1741), Fabien Raux settled with Marie—his wife, who is herself a native of the region—in this elegant house located on the outskirts of town. While the very large vegetable garden at the back of the restaurant doesn’t allow them to be self-sufficient, it is nonetheless put to good use in the beautiful dishes created by our former “Grand de demain,” whose cuisine—full of freshness and indulgence—hits the mark every time: an intriguing reinterpretation of foie gras paired with rhubarb and a delicately smooth consommé; ikejime-style Arctic char with mushrooms and wild garlic (a dish with a well-rounded profile and bold flavors); remarkable preparation of the lamb, carrots, and black lemon (with a juice featuring delicate nuances), a playful pre-dessert themed around frosted lemon, followed by a magnificent finale combining chocolate and calamansi lemon. The service is well-paced, and the wine list is well-curated, though we’d like to see it take more risks.