"Who's that one? - the question Pierre Vassiliu once asked is no longer so relevant to Julien Razemon, who moved into the singer's former home in the heart of the Gers region five years ago. Having worked at the Bois Prin in Chamonix, then the Domaine de la Corniche in the Yvelines, the chef offers meticulously-crafted seasonal cuisine. The aperitif can be taken facing nature, before settling down for a hidden menu in 3, 5 or 7 courses (€55, €77 or €99), or a lunch menu starting at €44, which attracts a loyal local clientele. The cuisine alternates between seasonal produce and more noble ingredients, such as lobster salpicon served with a quenelle of patient osciètre caviar, or Brittany blue lobster served with snacked black pudding, followed by Aubrac entrecôte served with a reduced jus and seasonal vegetables. The rhubarb dessert concludes a technically masterful dinner on a fresh note. Smiling, relaxed service, accessible cellar with fine references around €50 and a few more ambitious estates.